Au Revoir, Monsieur Theyskens!
Despite critical acclaim for its design wunderkind, Olivier Theyskens, and impressive retail sales growth, P&G closes the fashion house of Rochas
Despite the critical acclaim showered on its designer, Olivier Theyskens, and recent growth at the retail level, P&G closes down the fashion arm of fashion house Rochas.
Fashion is a fickle mistress, and while accolades are crucial to brand prestige, they don't pay the bills. Even with a continuous stream of fawning accolades for the 29-year-old Olivier Theyskens from the fashion press, style insiders, and A-list editors alike, after three years, P&G decided in July 2006 that it was time for the final curtain call for the fashion arm of the house of Rochas. (P&G will continue to produce the fragrance, as part of their stable, which includes the fragrance licenses for Anna Sui, Montblanc, Escada & Gucci.) Ironically, Theyskens was just crowned this year's International Designer of the Year, and was beginning to develop a vibrant ready-to-wear business - up at least 30% last year.
Theyskens originally shot to fame at the age 21 when he began dressing Madonna for the red carpet, and sent her to the Oscars in a striking black Goth-meets-future'y gown. Fashion insider anticipation was at a fever pitch when he took over the creative helm of the venerable house. Artistically, he delivered, helping to usher in a newly refined and demure Victorian mood and silhouette on the runways (mirrored by other influential designers like Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton and Muiccia Prada). Unfortunately, Rochas always remained under the popular fashion radar, and was more known for costly cocktail dresses and red carpet frocks retailing in the mid-five figures.
For all its fabulousness & frippery, the fact is, fashion today is about $$$. Labels that fail to reach critical mass, die. Only for a select few couture houses is this not the case; while the fashion side of their operations may be hemorrhaging money, they are so revered world-wide, that people willingly make up the difference by shelling out cash for perfumes, sunglasses and accessories en masse.
