International Fashion Designers
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Aug 25, 2007
Under the Fashionweek Tents
Other than the obvious - money! - find out some of what it takes for a small unknown to send their designs down the runway at New York's glitzy, high-powered Fashionweek
For the 20 or so minutes that the average fashion show lasts, it’s pure glamour: thumping music drowns out the chatter of the excited fashion crowd as the house darkens and gorgeous creatures glide down the runway in quick succession, hair and makeup fixed just so, and the audience riveted by outfit after outfit striding by.
However, the months leading up to that half hour of theatre are stress-ridden and anything but glamourous. And
Refinery29, an indie fashion-centric website, captures all the delicious mayhem on their newly-launched series
The Countdown which runs through the start of New York Fashionweek (Wednesday, September 5th), with the final installment going live at the end of the week. "We wanted to work with designers who'd let us be a fly on the wall,” of Refinery29 creative director,
Philippe von Borries, recently told WWD about following young, mostly underfunded designers including
Alexander Wang,
Jeremy Laing,
Vena Cava,
Rag & Bone,
Karen Walker &
Ruffian – following them on camera as they do everything from model castings to location scouting for the runway show. "Because they're independent, they don't have the same resources as more established designers. They're producing the best show they can on a shoestring."
Designed to provide an intimate, realistic perspective of what it takes to be a part of New York Fashionweek, participants were chosen for reasons other than having
Project Runway-style larger-than-life personalities. "We wanted to capture different components of fashion week," explains
Christine Barberich, Refinery29's editorial director. While capturing a meltdown on tape wasn’t ostensibly the purpose of the exercise, a little stress always makes for good marketing, in this case, the jittery tagline: "Six designers. Six studios. One feverish race to fashion week."
- via WWD
Aug 17, 2007
Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion
To find the next big thing, you have to know where to look. Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion highlights the up-and-coming “it” before everyone is buzzing about them.
Yes the traditional big four fashionweek cities – New York, London, Milan, Paris – are hotbeds of indie (and not so) design, but increasingly, the most interesting new talent is to be found elsewhere. One of the best places is
Gen Art, a tour de force for emerging visual artists, filmmakers, musicians, and upcoming fashion stars. Before they went mainstream,
Zac Posen,
Rebecca Taylor &
Chaiken all had their fashionable roots nurtured by
Gen Art. “Gen Art strives to provide access to the film, fashion, art and music worlds for those that are interested in these areas, but often are intimidated and made to feel unwelcomed by the exclusive nature of these art / entertainment realms,” they explain. As one of the leading arts & entertainment organizations devoted to showcasing emerging talent, they produce
over 100 events annually – including a week-long film festival, DJ competitions, art exhibitions, multi-media events, and massive star-studded fashion shows.
At the
13th annual Fresh Faces in Fashion – the fourth held in
San Francisco – eight new fashion and accessories designers will showcase their looks to a packed house at the Regency Center on Wednesday, August 22.
This year’s fashion designers include:
Accessories designers:
The Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion San Francisco kicks off a series of national Fresh Faces in Fashion shows that take place during the official fashionweeks in:
- New York (September 5)
- Chicago (October 9)
- Los Angeles (October 12).
As a whole, they are the largest set of emerging designer shows in the United States.
To stay abreast of what’s new, check out
GenArt.com.
Aug 6, 2007
Armani Outfits Soccer Players
For their new off-field uniforms, the lucky players at Chelsea F.C. can now strut their stuff in Armani.
It’s good to be a member of the Chelsea Football Club in London – especially if you’re a fashionable fellow. After redoing the club’s director’s lounge with Armani Casa, the designer recently overhauled their off-field uniforms. "Chelsea F.C. has become known the world over for the quality of its game and the internationalism of its players who have become sporting icons," Armani recently told WWD (Armani’s Luxe Spin on Soccer, Monday, August 6, 2007).
Lucky fans in the UK can pick up the suits at Emporio Armani for just over $1,200, and know they’re wearing part of the new uniform, which includes:
- a single-breasted suit in navy
- Chelsea club tie
- blue cotton shirt
- polo shirt
- mock croc belt
- brown suede half boots
- matching knee-length cashmere formal coat
- nylon rain coat
This latest endeavor only adds to an ever-expanding empire that now boasts more than $2 billion in sales and includes a couture house, ready to wear, sportswear, shoes, denim, menswear & accessories, home furnishings, cosmetics, and more than 20 licensees (including Luxtottica-produced eyewear) and 250 stores worldwide selling products bearing the Armani name.
After dropping out of medical school and selling his Volkswagen to raise money, Armani launched his menswear line in 1974, followed the next year by womenswear. However, it wasn’t until 1980 that he bubbled up pop culture foodchain with American Gigolo, outfitting a dashing Richard Gere in his sleekly sexy suits. Designing the wedding attire for the TomKat circus last year also provided a huge PR bonanza, as do his periodic spats with Valentino and Donatella Versace.
- via WWD
Jul 22, 2007
Print Magazines Supersize Sept.
Despite the clamor about the death of print, for some lucky magazines, ad pages have hit an all-time high way above the traditional ginormnous'ness of the September issue
No, believe it or not that’s
not the phone book clogging up your mail box…it’s actually the brick-sized behemoth aka the September issue of your fave fashion magazine. With popular books such as American
Vogue setting a new record for the most pages ever printed for a monthly, including a jaw-dropping 727 ad pages – part of an annual 16 percent increase to a record-breaking 2,297 ad pages which more than topped
In Style’s 2,216 pages (representing a 7 percent decline annually) – supersizing is the hot new trend in print publishing.
Although
Men's Health,
Elle,
W and
Harper's Bazaar will all be showing off their biggest issues ever, titles like
Lucky,
Cosmopolitan,
Seventeen,
Teen Vogue, and
Maxim are all posting fewer pages – the flipside of the trend identified by
Publishers Information Bureau. "That's all from one word — automotive,"
Rob Gregory, Maxim's group publisher, recently told WWD (
September Fashion Issues Go Plus Sized, Friday, July 20, 2007).
Here’s how the print magazine field fared in terms of September ad pages:
SEPT 07: % CHANGE, YEAR-TO-DATE, % CHANGE- Allure 209.3 ,12.3 ,1225, 13
- Cosmopolitan 191, -9, 1359, 4
- Elle 398, 8.4, 1734, 10
- Essence 136.9 ,0.6, 1004,.1, -0.1
- Glamour 285.5, 3.7, 1443, 13.5
- Harper's Bazaar 360, 16, 1316.1, 14
- In Style 396.4, 4.9, 2216.2, -6.8
- Lucky 279.3, -7.7, 1289, 1
- Marie Claire 168, -1.8, 974, 5.8
- Self 157, 2.6, 970, 7
- Vanity Fair 349.8, 5, 1466, 15.9
- Vogue 727, 16.2, 2296.6, 7.4
- W 477, 22, 1540, 12
- Women's Health 83.4, 54.5, 454.9, 49.1
- Seventeen 118.7, -10.4, 671.2, -8.5
- Teen Vogue 243.6, -10.3, 853.7, -5
- Best Life 93.7, 46.6, 369.1, 44.2
- Details 258.8, 1.6, 860.8, 6.3
- Esquire 154.5, 2.1, 725, -6.1
- GQ 331, 3.4, 1171, 2.4
- Maxim 102, -7, 609, -9
- Men's Health 155.4, 7.1, 791.6, 17.2
- Men's Journal 118.2, 22.4, 831.1, 16.5
- Men's Vogue 179.6, 9.8, 470.5, 72.7
- Stuff 65.1, -8, 456.9, -4
- via WWD
Jul 9, 2007
Peter Dundas & Ungaro Split
Emanuel Ungaro gives yet another designer his walking papers.
As president of Chloé, Mou
nir Moufarrige ousted A-list designer
Karl Lagerfeld – a known quantity with a proven track record – and replaced him in 1997 with the highly controversial choice of
Stella McCartney…a 25 year old upstart then known only for being the daughter of a Beatle. Now as president & CEO of Emanual Ungaro, his most recent housecleaning efforts have cost designer Peter Dundas his job.
Since
Asim Abdullah, an entrepreneur in the high-tech business purchased the house from the Ferragamo Group in 2005, the same year Ungaro himself retired from the design house he founded in 1965, the top design job has yet to find its long-term match. And insider gossip revealed a rift between management and Dundas on the creative direction of Ungaro.
His most recent Fall 2007 collection was a sparkly Studio 54-ready collection, replete with a white Bianca Jagger pantsuit, a single-shouldered sparkly mini, sexily short puffer jackets and completely luscious white hooded fur. (
CLICK HERE for photos of the show & the Fashiontribes runway review.)
Undeniably hip and modern, yes, but true to the spirit of the impeccable, elegant Ungaro? Questionable.
Both sides issued the usual bland press statements –
Ungaro: "We thank him for his contribution and we remain fully committed to continuing the legacy of the house."
Dundas: "I want to thank the House of Ungaro and say I am proud to have worked alongside the wonderfully talented people there and wish the company continued success.” – and it may be some time before the replacement is named, as Moufarriage has a reputation for remaining unruffled & unhurried. In the mean time, the in-house team will continue to prepare for the upcoming Spring 2007 shows in September. "There's a great team in the studio working," noted Moufarriage.
- via WWD
Jul 2, 2007
Ms. Prada Goes to the Movies
Fashion design giant Miuccia Prada recently designed two cyber-punk costumes for the warrior-heroine of a Japanese animated movie set in a warlike future.
Miuccia Prada recently designed two special cyber-punk costumes for one lucky Japanese anime character,
Deunan Knute, the heroine of Shinji Aramaki’s animated
Appleseed: Ex Machina. Based on Masamune Shirow’s comic series, it depicts a future where humans are warring with their clones, the bioroids. "Watching the previous
Appleseed,'I thought that the expression of contrast in man and machine, violence and love was wonderful," the designer recently said at a press conference about the prequel, Appleseed, known for its innovative use of
3D Live Animation –a cutting edge blend of conventional cell- and computer-animation. "I designed something contemporary that matches the movie's feelings."
Interestingly, as WWD pointed out, the movie appeared connected to her Fall 2006
Metropolitan Armor collection in which discarded the prim look she helped usher in a few seasons prior.
Replacing her perfectly groomed 50s lady was an intellectual-looking student type, off to a graduate seminar in politics clad in short sweater dresses made from somber gray chunky knits. “There was no mistaking the new attitude that was unleashed at Prada for fall,”
Style.com wrote about the collection. “It charged out of the gate, looking young, angry, sexy, and serious—and dressed to tackle real life. 'I'm tired of being so sweet,' declared Miuccia Prada. 'We women should go back to strength—and the sober side. Stop trying to appeal to everyone, and go out into the world.'"
After Toei Co. releases the
Appleseed: Ex Machina in Japan on
October 20, Warner Home Video will be distributing the movie in 90 countries.
- via WWD
Jun 25, 2007
Jean Paul Gaultier, Rule Breaker
This year's FGI Superstar Award goes to Jean Paul Gaultier for his more than 30 years of fabulously non-orthodox fashion and consistent rule- & ground-breaking design.
The Rule Breakers is the theme of the next
Night of Stars gala on October 25th in NYC, for which the Fashion Group International has anointed
Jean Paul Gaultier as the belle of the ball. At NYC’s swanky Cipriani 42nd Street, Gaultier will receive the
Superstar Award in honor of his many decades of challenging the fashion mainstream…a typically all-black clad cabal (literally & figuratively) which could really use a healthy challenge every now and then.
Gaultier established and cemented his reputation as the “bad boy” of the fashion world with his eponymous design house which turned 30 this year, sticking
men in skirts for one collection, in another sending fabulously politically incorrect
Hasidic Chic down the runway complete with sidelocks attached to the models’ temples. He has also outfitted eyebrow-raising rocker
Marilyn Manson, designed the wardrobe for Peter Greenaway’s shocking & surreal
The Cook, The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover, and of course, put Madonna into the infamous
cone bra costume for her 1990
Blonde Ambition tour. "Jean Paul Gaultier embodies the spirit of this year's event," Margaret Hayes, FGI's president, told WWD. "His rule-breaking design philosophy has secured him a unique place in fashion and identifies him as a true superstar." (Previous recipients have included Burt Tansky, Valentino, Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan, Suzy Menkes, Tom Ford and the Lauder family.)
Even Gaultier’s training was less than orthodox; the self-taught 18-year old sent sketches to
Pierre Cardin who hired him as an assistant in 1970, later noting: "From your first collection in 1976, you have challenged the criteria of taste and bad taste.You have shocked, troubled and irritated while enjoying yourself clouding the issue with an ambivalent and interchangeable wardrobe." (
SAWF News) Or, as
Time Magazine more succinctly put it way back in 1984: “clothes for yucks and clothes for bucks”.
- via WWD
Jun 18, 2007
Oscar de la Renta Bling for Less
Oscar de la Renta's latest license for affordable fashion jewelry gives normal fashionistas a piece of the Oscar action.
The typical Oscar de la Renta fashion client is awash in old money and inherited jewelry, and the rest of us will probably never (realistically) be able to afford much of anything Oscar. However, starting in August, fashionistas from all walks of the economic spectrum will be able to drape themselves in some de la Renta, courtesy of the new budget-friendly O Oscar line of fashion jewelry lauching at Macy's in the affordable $35 to $250 range. "We see jewelry as another way for a woman to [express] herself," said Eliza Bolen, creative director of licensing for Oscar de la Renta recently told WWD about the new line, produced by NYC’s Haskell Jewels Ltd., the NYC firm behind Jennifer Lopez’s justsweet line and Betsey Johnson jewelry. "We all like to accessorize. It's another dimension, another fashion item you can put on." Agrees Haskell’s COO, Gabrielle Fialkoff, "It seems to be a trend. You're seeing costume on the runway. With statement jewelry, nothing gets more attention."
An extension of the trend transforming mere fashion designers into arbiters of the stylish life – where fashion clients can now dress in, live with & accessorize with items designed by their fave designers - the new line of O Oscar costume jewelry mirrors the Oscar de la Renta aesthetic: extremely feminine and sophisticated.
First year sales of the line are projected at an estimated $2 million (wholesale), and looks will include a multi-chain necklace dripping with branches of black coral, a bracelet made from links of resin with gray and white pearls inset, quilted fabric, and the letter “O” in script.
- via WWD
Jun 9, 2007
Celebs as Designers: Yay or Nay?
True, celeb designers are a marketing ploy, but what matters is the fact that more people are paying attention - and $$$ - for fashion, which helps everyone in the biz.
Bitten by Sarah Jessica Parker for the American discount chain Steve & Barry’s,
Sweetface by Jennifer Lopez, handbags & shoes by
Jessica Simpson,
Madonna for H&M,
Chick by Nicky Hilton,
Kate Moss for Top Shop,
Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen at Walmart. “These celebrity clothing lines are being done for publicity. It’s all about how much hype can be got from the launch,”
George Davis – the man behind George at Asda, Per Una (Marks & Spencer), and Next –
recently noted in a speech at De Montfort University in Leicester, mirroring the opinion of many in the fashion business (including those who enjoy blogging about it) that celebs playing designer shortchanges the fashion-buying public. “If you look at the past instances of celebrity designs, they don’t create anything that survives the test of time.”
But is the celeb-as-designer trend really as harmful as many fashion insiders seem to feel?
While the actual design value of much what these celebs are promoting is – without question –
questionable, the intense focus on the products themselves misses the broader context: making the market for fashion more democratic & accessible.
Instead of it being too expensive or too intimidating for the unwashed masses, and limited only to an elite group of well-heeled fashionistas, using celebrities to attract the attention and purchasing power of the public at large actually opens up the market to a wider array of opinions, consumers, and pricepoints. People who would be priced out of the end of the market created by legitimate designers – marked by $1200 handbags and $5000 ensembles – can afford to play when they are encouraged to participate and nothing is priced over $20 (Bitten).
The result is that the fashion industry can grow and become more lucrative.
As more consumers pay attention to fashion and start spending, the more robust the fashion industry as a whole becomes. Myriad players benefit from the designers themselves – there are now a lot more jobs available so they can pay their bills as designers rather than waiting tables – all the way up (down?) to the fashion editors and writers; because there are now so many more readers with different interests, there is not only a much broader readership to serve, which means additional revenue from advertising, but there are more opportunities for niche publications and new, unique, and individual editorial voices.
Jun 2, 2007
Rich Chicks Read W
Yes, people actually purchase those pricey fashions in glossy magazines. And research indicates they just keep getting wealthier.
If you’ve ever wondered just who can afford those pricey threads, $800 sandals, and bags with four-figure pricetags in glossy fashion mags – well, they’re reading W magazine and enjoying an annual household income in excess of $100,000 (which is up 26 percent compared with last spring). Mediamark Research recently reported that the W reader’s median household income of $104,057 is the highest for female readers, followed by $87,013 for readers of
Lucky magazine. "If you don't have a lot of money, you won't be happy reading this magazine,"
Sandy Golinkin, Lucky's vice president and publisher recently told WWD, explaining that their own research indicated their readers wanted more-more-more goodies with luxury pricetags. "We've always said we have more affluent readers than most people expect."
And the rest of the pack? Here’s how they stacked up in terms of the median household incomes of their women readers:
- W $104,057 (up 26 percent from spring ’06)
- Lucky $87, 013
- Harper’s Bazaar $76,873 (up 33 percent)
- InStyle $75,922
- Elle $70,509 (up almost 11 percent)
- Jane $69,519
- Vogue $65,074 (up 11 percent)
- Allure $63,768
- Glamour $61,327
- Marie Claire $59,673
- Cosmopolitan $55,401
- Town & Country $54,406 (less than 1 percent)
What’s surprising is how handily breezy
Lucky trumped “serious” fashion book
Vogue. However, according to a study they recently conducted, a shift is taking place culturally. The results will be released as “Feminine Model of Influence”.
- via WWD
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